26+ years of industry experience
Two ways we put money back in your pocket: recovering refunds you're owed on cancelled auto products, and standing between you and the finance office on your next purchase.
We are not a dealership, not a lender, and not affiliated with any manufacturer. We are paid by you and only by you — which is the entire point.
Most people come to us for the refund and stay for the advice. Either door works.
Traded in, refinanced, paid off early, or totalled a vehicle? You may be owed a prorated refund on products you paid for and no longer have.
You pick the car. We tell you what it should actually cost, review every number you're handed, and negotiate on your behalf before you sign anything.
Buying vehicles for a company? Your business may qualify for a manufacturer fleet account issued in its own name — and most owners never find out.
The salesperson, the sales manager, the finance manager — every one of them is paid by the dealership. That's not a scandal, it's just how it works. The problem is that most buyers walk in without anyone on their side of the table.
We take no commissions, referral fees, or kickbacks from any dealership or lender. Ever.
You choose the vehicle and you sign in your own name. We advise and negotiate — we never sell you a car.
Out-the-door price, not monthly payment. That single shift is where most of the savings live.
Florida-based, working with buyers across the state.
Both move real money, and neither is explained at the desk — because not explaining them is worth more to the dealership than explaining them.
A lease is priced by the money factor and the residual value, not by the sticker. Most people sign one having seen neither number.
Manufacturers publish incentives constantly — military, first responder, recent graduate, loyalty, conquest, regional cash, subvented financing. Some stack. Some cancel each other out.
A rebate you do not ask for is margin the dealership keeps. Nobody is obliged to volunteer every program you qualify for, and at the desk they generally do not.
Excess mileage charges and wear-and-tear penalties are return penalties. They exist because the manufacturer has to resell the car. Buy it out at the end and there is nothing to inspect and nobody to charge you — the condition is yours, because the car is yours.
That matters because lease incentives are frequently larger than purchase incentives. Captive lenders subsidise the money factor, inflate the residual and add lease-only cash that simply is not on the table if you finance. The buyout price is fixed the day you sign, so you know it in advance.
Which turns the usual advice on its head for two kinds of buyer:
Neither of those people is a "lease customer" by the usual definition. Both can come out ahead going in through the lease door and never walking back out of it.
It does not always win. Sales tax treatment on a lease-then-buyout varies by state and can eat the advantage, some captives now restrict or charge for buyouts, and you still have to finance the buyout at whatever rate you can get at the time. That is exactly the arithmetic worth running before you sign, not after.
Have us run it both waysNearly every buyer walks in to argue about price, settles it, and treats the rest as paperwork. The rest is where the larger numbers live — and each of these is separate money, so they add up rather than trading off against each other.
Get one of these right and you have saved a few hundred dollars. Get all eight right and it is a different order of number — which is the entire argument for having someone on your side of the desk.
Rather than a headline number you have to take on faith, here is the arithmetic with every assumption stated. Change the assumptions and the answer changes — that is the point.
| Where | What we do | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Negotiated on out-the-door terms against real transaction data | $1,000 – $5,000 |
| Structure & incentives | Finance, lease or lease-then-buy, plus the programs you actually qualify for | $500 – $1,500 |
| Interest rate | Two points off a marked-up rate, over a 72-month term | $2,810 – $3,000 |
| Trade-in | Value corrected, plus the Florida sales-tax credit that rides on it | $0 – $3,000 |
| GAP | Declined, or bought at a sane price instead of the presented one | $0 – $700 |
| Warranty & F&I | What is worth having, at what it should cost | $500 – $2,000 |
| Total | Floor assumes no trade and no GAP | $4,810 – $15,200 |
Two honest notes. The rate figure is interest across the full term — keep the loan to maturity and you save all of it; pay it off in year four and you save part of it. And not every line applies to every buyer: no trade means no trade line, and a cash buyer skips the rate entirely. The low column is what a straightforward deal looks like; the high column needs every lever live at once.
A midpoint deal — some movement on each line — lands around $10,000 on a $40,000 car. That is a quarter of the vehicle, and none of it required you to be a tougher negotiator. It required someone who knew which numbers to look at.
Note that this table covers six of the eight. Lease equity and product refunds are not in it, because they attach to the vehicle you are leaving rather than the one you are buying — and on a lease turn-in or a recent payoff they are frequently the largest lines of all.
Starting with the one that costs people the most: a lease you hand back may have thousands of dollars of equity in it, and turning it in gives that money to the dealership instead of you. Then dealer reserve on your rate, why cash back and 1.9% are a choice, what a trade-in really saves you in Florida tax, and why invoice is not cost.
The reason most of it goes unsaid is not always what people assume — a great many people on the floor do not know it either.
Find out what you're owed back on a cancelled product, or what your finance contract actually cost you. You see the number first — nothing is stored and no email is required.
Twenty-six years on the inside of this business, now spent entirely on the buyer's side of the desk. Independent, Florida-based, and paid by you alone.
Call and describe your situation. If we can't help, we'll tell you that in the first two minutes rather than waste your time.
